SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE

Or spaghetti al ragú, if you prefer. I don't know how you make your ragú, but mine gets equal amounts of beef and pork and a lot of chicken livers. I reckon these add an incredible sweetness and richness that you really can't get any other way. Maybe fresh porcini might come close. But only just. Another thing - a decent ragú takes hours of slow cooking. You simply cannot get the same result in 15 minutes on a stove or in a microwave. That's my opinion. What's yours?

SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE

RED EMPEROR WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES AND AIOLI

Not much required by way of cooking notes here. I could stop right there. But like a person who says "my next guest needs no introduction", you don't really expect me to stop there, so I'll go on a bit longer, although there's really not a lot I want to say about this dish, since it's basically fish, admittedly very nice fish, from tropical Queensland waters, with panko crumbs - which you know by now are simply coarse bread crumbs - and you can probably see the vegetables I have roasted but in case you can't and to use up some additional space I'll tell you what they are starting with kipfler potatoes, and these started cooking first, so it makes sense to list them first, then butternut squash, which went into the oven next and came from our lovely neighbours Tom & Wyn and then finally zucchini, because they don't need a lot of cooking, and then I plated everything up and added a dollop of roast garlic aioli and a squeeze of leon juice, which isn't visible in the photo, plus salt and pepper.

RED EMPEROR WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES AND AIOLI

BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH BLACK TRUFFLE AND PUY LENTILS

The observant amongst you might have noticed I cooked chicken legs last night. This'll be the front half of the same bird. I'm normally a thigh man, but my god these breasts were something special. Brined like the legs. The skin is fine and really crisp, the flesh moist (and for a breast, that's a big call) and with that rare chicken flavour that only the very best chooks have - Bresse, Barossa Valley, AC Butchery and these ones from Alstonville. Oh, and almost any chicken you buy in Mexico - on account of being fed on corn, of which Mexico has a lot. A little truffle salt on the skin before roasting, a drizzle of black truffle oil and slices of truffle make for something quite special.

BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH BLACK TRUFFLE AND PUY LENTILS

WILD ROCKET WITH HAZELNUTS

This rocket might have been wild once. But it seems thoroughly tame now. It plays chess. It drives a Camry. It does sudoku. Not even all that peppery. I grow some here at home, but the season is over, so this is bought and it's nice but not as potent as the stuff that grows downstairs. I had some lovely roasted hazelnuts from a farm not far from here. And some hazelnut oil. And white wine vinegar. Voila. As I'd say if I were French.

WILD ROCKET WITH HAZELNUTS

BRINED LEG OF CHICKEN WITH CHILLI & TOMATO SNAKE BEANS

Brining does something to chicken. For starters, it makes the skin go crisp. It also seems to make the flesh moister. I don't understand the science - to do that I probably need to read Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking, which explores and explains the cooking process from a scientific point of view. All I know is that a really tasty chicken (from Alstonville) was made tastier. A classic Italian accompaniment - except that I used snake beans. Because they're in season. Because I like them. And because I can.

BRINED LEG OF CHICKEN WITH CHILLI & TOMATO SNAKE BEANS

WOK TOSSED FLATHEAD WITH EGGPLANT AND BASIL

I went down to the vegetable garden to pick some holy basil. Seems the crickets like holy basil too. Lots of holes in the holy basil. Funny that they savaged that, but not the Thai basil right next to it. So that's what I picked. Love these quick Asian dishes - peanut oil, garlic, eschallots, baby eggplants, fish sweet dark soy sauce, chillies, basil and fish sauce. Ten minutes start to finish. I had made some quail stock so I served it with jasmine rice cooked in quail stock.

WOK TOSSED FLATHEAD WITH EGGPLANT AND BASIL

CRUMBED FLATHEAD WITH CHICKPEA SALAD AND ROAST GARLIC AIOLI

Flathead. So called because it has a? Anyone? Correct. I think of school when I think of flathead - and this is probably because we spent every May holiday at Port Macquarie - and most days in Port Macquarie fishing on Hastings River or up Limeburners Creek. For flathead. Sometimes bream. Occasionally garfish. But most flathead. Some big fillets at the fishmonger - and you know what that means? Yes, right again. Big flathead. The thing about flathead is that they get to a certain length and then seem to stop growing longer, but get wider and wider so that old fish look like the aspect needs to be adjusted on the TV. The other thing about old flathead is that they seem to have no fight in them. Hook one and it feels like you are dragging a discarded kettle to the surface. Think a kettle is a strange object to suggest? My dad caught one once. He thought he had a big flathead on the line. So judging from the size of the fillets, my guess is that these fish were about 70 cms in length.

CRUMBED FLATHEAD WITH CHICKPEA SALAD AND ROAST GARLIC AIOLI

CURED SALMON WITH AVOCADO

I'm all for balance in life. No safe, grey, middle of the road stuff for me though. I have my own way of achieving balance. I counter one extreme with another. After the meaty onslaught of last night, the purity and lightness of tonight.

Here is a recipe for a great curing mix for salmon or ocean trout.

1 TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS
1 TEASPOON WHITE PEPPERCORNS
1 TEASPOON FENNEL SEEDS
GRATED ZEST OF 1 LEMON
100 GMS SUGAR
100 GMS COARSE SALT

Dry roast the seeds until aromatic. When cool, mix with the other ingredients in a non reactive dish (ceramic, for example) just big enough to hold the fish in a single layer. I used two tail sections of salmon, about 200 gms each. Place the fillets on the mix and spoon some mix over the top so the fillets are evenly covered. Cover with cling wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours. Scrape off seeds and wipe off the salty oils that will have accumulated. Slice finely and serve.

CURED SALMON WITH AVOCADO

DRY AGED RIB OF BEEF

Our local butcher, Paul, from Jack Sprats, sources most of his beef from two properties, one near Gympie, a few hours north of here, and the other in the Tweed Valley over the hill. Both are good. Paul makes their meat better by dry ageing it. Not all butchers dry age their beef. Mostly I guess because it is expensive. The beef dehydrates and loses weight. Additionally the outside of the beef needs to be cut off. The result is much better meat - but also more expensive - and a lot of people are programmed to buy as cheaply as possible. I'm sorry, but I'd rather go without than attempt to eat $7.99 a kilo rump that one butcher confessed he "would only feed to my dog". So this has been my carnivorous indulgence for the week. And how I loved it.

DRY AGED RIB OF BEEF

GLAZED QUAIL WITH SNAKE BEANS IN CHILLI PRAWN SAUCE

Eating quail reminds me of Tom Hanks eating corn in Big. The shape is recognisably bird, but rendered in miniature. Sometimes quail is served whole - which is a pain in the butt. I challenge a neurosurgeon to display the manual dexterity necessary to carve a whole quail with knife and fork. I find it easier to cut off the legs and slice the breast and wing off the carcass (which I use to make quail stock). This way, a diner has at least a fighting chance of getting quail to mouth without accident. These pieces were marinated in red wine, treacle, garlic, ginger and roasted chilli paste. The snake beans were wok tossed with a little quail stock and crispy prawn chilli paste - one of my favourite Thai condiments.

GLAZED QUAIL WITH SNAKE BEANS IN CHILLI PRAWN SAUCE

CINNAMON QUAIL WITH BLACK BEAN PUREE AND ONIONS EN ESCABECHE

No battery, no pic. Pity, because it looked quite good. Quails semi deboned, dusted with ground cinnamon, pepper and cloves, then drizzled with olive oil and grilled. A reduction of black beans, bean broth and quail stock puréed to the consistency of soft polenta. Red onions and garlic sweated in olive oil, then with thyme, marjoram, bay, red wine, sherry and sherry vinegar added and reduced until almost dry. Mex, but definitely NOT Tex.

CINNAMON QUAIL WITH BLACK BEAN PUREE AND ONIONS EN ESCABECHE

CHORIZOS WITH POLENTA AND BROCCOLINI

It was one of those days. One of those days when you don't hear the mirror smash, don't see the black cat on the path ahead, don't see the ladder above. One of those days that makes a lie of the phrase 'no news is good news'. One of those days that you spend working intensely and at the end you have nothing to show for your toil. One of those days that axe murderers use as an alibi. "I couldn't help it. It was one of those days, your honour." Everything I wrote, I unwrote. And wrote. And unwrote (and yes, I know there's no such word as unwrote - but it's one of those days). And then I learn that it's going to cost $1500 to fix my amp. What did I expect? It was one of those days. Now, I don't know about you, but when I am having one of those days, I know better than to tackle fancy food. So I didn't. A couple of chorizos thrown on the barbecue (and maybe it wasn't one of those days after all, because I didn't run out of gas). And some polenta, which was simple because I'd previously made the chicken stock in which I cooked it. And broccolini, which simply needed steaming. And now I am writing this and sipping a red wine called The Independent and there's a message on the back label that reads "The irony of independence - you rarely achieve it standing alone." On another day, I'd think this was a profound observation - but then it's one of those days. Or did I mention that?

CHORIZOS WITH POLENTA AND BROCCOLINI

CURED OCEAN TROUT WITH BABY FENNEL AND OCEAN TROUT ROE

Sex on a plate. Ocean trout is my favourite fish. I love it almost any way. I love the belly flap as sashimi. I love confit of fillets. I love fillets with the skin on seared over high heat so the skin goes crisp but the flesh stays raw. I love it smoked. And I love it cured. I bought a tail section yesterday and cured it in sugar, Himalayan salt, roasted coriander and fennel seeds and white pepper. Tonight I removed the curing mix and sliced it finely with a sashimi knife. A bed of wafer thin fennel marinated in lemon juice and olive oil, some finely chopped fennel fronds and a mound of trout roe to finish.

CURED OCEAN TROUT WITH BABY FENNEL AND OCEAN TROUT ROE

PAN FRIED MAHI MAHI

A dear friend, Ray, visited from Amsterdam a couple of days ago. Over dinner - or was it over beer or rum or wine or more beer? - we were talking about fish. Ray loves catching them. I love cooking them. He mentioned that mahi mahi is his favourite variety. I thought of him yesterday when I saw the fishmonger filleting a spectacular 20kg fish. I bought a couple of 3cm thick fillets and pan fried them over high heat in a little grapeseed oil. A squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of fabulous Colonna Granverde lemon infused olive oil and that's that. It would have been a really healthy meal if I'd stopped there. But I had some decadent Brillat Savarin cheese waiting. Orgasmic.

PAN FRIED MAHI MAHI

WATERCRESS AND RADISH SALAD

Not a lot to explain here. Watercress, radishes (outrageously neglected here in Oz), Shepherd avocado, sweet small tomatoes and a macadamia & mustard vinaigrette.

WATERCRESS AND RADISH SALAD

PANKO CRUMBED JEWFISH

Are fish religious? Do they have faith? Or have we given them religion by association. Saint Peter was a fisherman. The world's most famous picnic was based around loaves and fishes. Tilapia, a freshwater variety is sometimes called St Peter fish. There is an ugly variety called a monkfish. And then there is jewfish, which isn't ugly. And is very tasty. A very simple coating in coarse panko crumbs, squeeze of lemon juice and dollop of tapenade. Served with a watercress and radish salad.

PANKO CRUMBED JEWFISH

BABY BOK CHOY WITH TIANJIN PRESERVED VEGETABLES

A very simple and quick dish that I served with coconut sweet lip and a plate of snake beans & garlic shoots in crab sauce. I love the earthy saltiness of the preserved cabbage from Tianjin in China.

BABY BOK CHOY WITH TIANJIN PRESERVED VEGETABLES

COCONUT SWEET LIP WITH THAI FLAVOURS

There is a TV fisherman here in Australia by the name of Rex Hunt. Rex has a habit of kissing every fish he catches before returning it to the water. Every fish except shark. And maybe piranha. And barracuda. I have never kissed a fish, so I do not have Rex's expertise, but I wonder if the lips of a sweet lip truly are sweet. My first girlfriend had sweet lips - but that was on account of the strawberry lip gloss she wore. As far as I know, fish don't wear lipstick. Anyway, sweet lip isn't called sweet lip everywhere in Australia. It is also called red throated emperor. Which is strange because the red marking on a red throated emperor isn't around its throat, but higher up, closer to the back of its neck (if fish had necks). Anyway, it is a sweet fish that works well with the Thai flavours it gets here.

COCONUT SWEET LIP WITH THAI FLAVOURS

OCEAN TROUT WITH BLACK BEAN, TRUFFLE AND SQUID INK REDUCTION

There isn't enough black food. I mean properly black. Jet black. Black as ink. Under Milk Wood black - and if you've read the book, you'll know what I'm talking about. This is a fabulous sauce - a reduction of black bean stock, squid ink, black truffle oil, garlic and salt. ocean trout and zucchinis from this morning's markets.

OCEAN TROUT WITH BLACK BEAN, TRUFFLE AND SQUID INK REDUCTION

ROASTED VEGETABLES, CARAMELISED TOMATO BALSAMIC GLAZE & AIOLI

I often eat meals without meat. But I am not a vegetarian. That reminds me of some menus I have seen. If a fish burger is made from fish, then a vegetarian burger must be made from vegetarians. At least, that's what I used to think. That in turn reminds me of the Western Plains Zoo in New South Wales that had a price list that showed a price for the lion safari and another price for children and pensioners. It seemed a bit rich charging people to look at pensioners. Where I live I can see plenty of them for free. Same for children - just have a look at a kindergarten. Actually, that's not so easy - at least here in Australia. As a man, I'd be stoned, castrated, jailed and burned at the stake as a pedophile if I stopped to watch children. What a sad warped world we have created. Anyway, back to the vegetables. I am looking at this photo as I write this post. Does that make me a vegophile? Don't know. But they sure are tasty. So is this fabulous vinegar from Robinvale in Victoria.

ROASTED VEGETABLES, CARAMELISED TOMATO BALSAMIC GLAZE & AIOLI

POLENTA CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH AVOCADO AND CORN SALSA & CHIPOTLES EN ADOBO

It doesn't get much more Mexican than this ... except that polenta is Italian. And most people associate tomatoes with Italy as well. But corn, tomatoes, avocados and of course chillies all originate in Mexico ... along with chocolate, mango, sweet potato, zucchini, dragon fruit and more. Thank you, Chris Columbus for bringing all these goodies back to the old world.

POLENTA CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH AVOCADO AND CORN SALSA & CHIPOTLES EN ADOBO

CURRY OF CHICKEN, SNAKE BEANS & HOLY BASIL

A really rich pungent paste with a healthy dose of shrimp paste as well as roasted chillies. What I love about these Thai dishes is that once the curry paste is made (and I admit these can be time-consuming), the cooking is quick. Lots of brilliant snake beans at the markets right now. Holy basil from the garden. Unlike Thai basil, which is quite attractive, especially when in flower and especially if you're a bee, holy basil looks like a weed. (But then so does epazote, that quintessential Mexican herb.) 

CURRY OF CHICKEN, SNAKE BEANS & HOLY BASIL

TARAMASALATA

2 TAILOR OR MULLET ROE (APPROX 140 GMS)
SUGAR
JASMINE TEA LEAVES
RICE
2 THICK SLICES OF SOURDOUGH BREAD
1 1/2 LEMONS
1 CLOVE GARLIC
75 MLS MILK
500 MLS VEGETABLE OIL (SUCH AS GRAPESEED, CORN OR CANOLA)

Line a wok with foil. Place a few tablespoons each of rice grains, sugar and tea leaves in the bottom. Place over wok burner on medium heat until the mix starts smoking. Line a bamboo steaming basket with wax paper (leaving a small gap around the perimeter), place the fresh roe in the basket. Add lide and place over the smoking mix. Turn down the heat a little and smoke the roe for about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Meanwhile, break the bread into chunks, place in a bowl and add the milk. Mix so that most of the bread is damp. When cool, peel the roe and crumble it into a food processor. Add the bread/milk mix, the crushed garlic clove and the juice from the lemons. Purée this, then gradually add the oil until it is fully incorporated into the other ingredients. This will keep for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

TARAMASALATA

OCEAN TROUT WITH TARAMASALATA AND BABY BEETROOTS

If your only experience with taramasalata is the acidic pink stuff in tubs in supermarkets, then a traditional version might shock you. OK, shock is extreme. A live power cable would shock you. So this will come as a surprise. I will post a recipe - not traditional but really, really tasty. The smokiness of the taramasalata, the sweetness of the beetroots and the tang of a beetroot vinegar all worked nicely with this great piece of ocean trout.

OCEAN TROUT WITH TARAMASALATA AND BABY BEETROOTS

SALAD OF POACHED CHICKEN, SNAKE BEANS & ASPARAGUS WITH ROAST GARLIC AIOLI

Simple as a bogan. Poached chicken with steamed snake beans and asparagus, a decent olive oil (Joseph First Run) and lemon juice and a generous dollop of aïoli.

SALAD OF POACHED CHICKEN, SNAKE BEANS & ASPARAGUS WITH ROAST GARLIC AIOLI

JAMON SERRANO SALAD

Great things come out of the mountains. Serrano chillies - one of my favourites. Serrano ham - which in turn reminds me of Penelope Cruz's breasts and a giant metal bull with testicles that squeaked as they swayed in the breeze ... I guess you had to see the movie. Very basic salad elevated - if not to the top floor, then maybe the mezzanine - by ribbons of jamón serrano.

JAMON SERRANO SALAD

REEF COD WITH CHICKPEA SALAD

Ever seen fish wink? I have. Yes, I know that biologists say they can't but I reckon they can. And they do. Often. This afternoon, this reef cod winked at me. I did what any red-blooded man would do. I took it home. Simply pan fried in a little grape seed oil. A bed of chickpeas, coriander and mint. A green salad with ribbons of jamón serrano.

REEF COD WITH CHICKPEA SALAD